Fortnightly 5
Global Domination
Foods emblematic of their far-flung lands of origin are the emphatic favorites of all eaten during the past two weeks. They come from Peru, the Republic of Georgia, France, China and far Eastern Europe to ports of the Garden State where they’ve been expertly interpreted.
Lobiani, at Geamos Café & Bakery: Pickled jonjoli generously garnish a round, yeasty bread that’s a little too textured and chewy to be classified as a flatbread and comes stuffed with mashed kidney beans that are buttery, a bit garlicky and all-around savory. The whole thing, called lobiani, at first glance might appear to be a kin of a quesadilla. Is it those pickled buds of an exceptionally hardy bush native to the Caucasus region of Eastern Europe that alter the character of this bean-stuffed bread and turn it into a wholly divine and seminal eating experience? Surely the tangy-sharp and salty impact of these caper-esque accents that magically are more subtle than their look-somewhat-alikes play a key role in keeping me intrigued and enraptured. It’s one of many dishes that do just that at this new and very European storefront in downtown Westfield that’s become an immediate mecca for Georgian cuisine. Follow on Facebook @GeamosCafe&Bakery and on Instagram @geamos.cafe.
Causa (with chicken), at Ceviche House Mi Peru: Not to slight the fine ceviches at this proud salute to Peru on one of Red Bank’s main drags, but the anything-but-modest version of a classic causa is the best I’ve eaten in New Jersey. You can get it stuffed a few ways, but before you go fancy, go with the basic chicken salad: It’s pricked by slits of bell pepper, speckles of cilantro and red onion, and dressed in the silkiest of mayos. It’s stuffed in between layers of mashed Peruvian potatoes punched up with golden aji amarillo and a seemingly reckless amount of lime juice. On top, probably because the chefs here know how good their chicken salad is, there’s a prettied-up heap of more chicken salad. If you’re still unacquainted with the classics of Peruvian cuisine, come here to be properly educated and splendidly fed. More to come soon in a Restaurant Revue column. Website: www.cevichehousemiperu.com.

Tomato-egg noodles, at XiBei: Admittedly, I have a thing for Chinese tomato-egg noodle dishes, possibly because the well-made versions I’ve eaten as an adult have allowed me to understand why, as I kid, I’d douse poorly prepared scrambled eggs with ketchup in order to make them palatable. Tomatoes can do wonders with and for eggs. That’s the case here, at Lucy Liu’s new place in Princeton that puts Northwest China in the spotlight on the menu. Noodles are the base in this rendition, specifically peel noodles that have a chewy, dense structure that stands up to a veritable daube made from sizable hunks of tomatoes and scrambled eggs that lounge in a gently seasoned tomato broth. Mix all well, bringing up the noodles from the bottom and incorporating skinny strands of scallion into each bite you take. At first, I was wanting more sesame oil, more dark soy sauce, even more garlic. Then I got into the gentleness of XiBei’s version of this classic and felt as though I was being rocked into a state of contented calm by a lullaby. Website: www.princetonxibei.com.
Smoked tuna-salmon checkerboards, at NetCost: A new concept in smoked fishes that’s decidedly Eastern European, a trifle Japanese and a bit old-school deli has inspired a new wave of meal ideas in me since I secured a rasher of the stuff at the Manalapan uber-market (there’s one in Paramus, too). It’s a melded checkerboard block of both excellent smoked tuna and smoked salmon and, once you’ve had it sliced for you to take home, you, too, will find no end of uses for it. It’s all smoked fish should be, only in a twofer that proves the compatibility of tuna and salmon. Website: www.netcostmarket.com.
Raspberry tart, at Antoinette Boulangerie: Aren’t petite fruit tarts conceived in the French manner the most delightful pastries on the planet? Will you play polite as you cut into such a 3-inch round with a fork or go ultra-polite by severing it with a knife into quarters before eating? Might you brashly pick up a whole tart, securing it by hand and finger-feeding yourself in cautious bite-by-bite fashion? Emotion will rule, especially when faced with the impeccable raspberry version at this bakery in downtown Red Bank. Its crust is sturdy, yet tender; its thin layer of custard a welcome resting place for raspberries oh so deftly glazed. Berries, floral and almost roselike, reign. More to come soon about Antoinette’s pastries. Website: www.antoinetteboulangerie.com.
FORTNIGHTLY 5 recalls favorite foods eaten during the previous two weeks. It appears every other Monday.