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RESTAURANT REVUE: Shumi Leonia

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Susumu Shinagawa
Chef Train

Susumu Shinagawa, Okinami

Where does the Garden State’s itamae legend Kunihiko “Ike” Aikasa go out to eat for sushi? To the counter of a revered colleague now practicing his craft at a small, modest and always-popping storefront in Norwood. “Chef Shina” is the master’s selection to TPW’s chefs-pick-chefs society of top toques, and his own story is reflective of the manner in which he approaches every turn of the knife: with utmost care and inspiration from ingredient.

Triple Decker "Heaven"
Food Find

Ma & Pa’s Triple-Decker ‘Heaven’

It’s a bruiser, this wanna-be hand-held that’s a many-layered thing coming out of the Tex-Mex-meets-BBQ genre. And it’s a gentle giant that, if it doesn’t kill you first, will win you over with its doe-eyed charms.

Sunday Kitchen

Spring Chicken

The season of rebirth sees a new crop of chickens from a singularly focused farmer teaming up with current-harvest vegetables to make for a quintessential end-of-weekend supper. (Next “Bec Bird” gets spatchcocked on the grill.)

Alex and Rob McKeage, at The Potato Homestead
Place

The Potato Homestead

Redefine what “homestead” means to far too many through the breadth and depth of what Alex and Rob McKeage grow and produce at their year-round operation in Cape May County. It’s meat-and-potatoes growing, making, preserving and baking and it’s all served forth sustainably and conscientiously. Lauren Vitagliano takes TPW readers on a tour.

Season's Eatings

Bok Choy, the Farmers’ Favorite

Garden State farmers are high on this spring’s harvest of the ancient Chinese cabbage that’s a member of the mustards family and known for its two-part harmony of crunchy, juicy stems and tender green leaves. Use it now to make a bowl that celebrates a prime vegetable and its many friends.

Pulled brisket shamburak, at Ishtabach
Fortnightly 5

Old-Gen/Next-Gen Homey

There’s something embraceable and warming about each of the favorites in this round, be it something reminiscent of the past or looking ahead to new ways of preparing a food that’s fundamentally old school.

Sunday Kitchen

Strawberry Strata

It’s seasonally appropriate and sensationally versatile at the table – a layering as suitable for breakfast as it is for dessert and starring the rosy jewel of a fruit that marks spring at its peak.

Clockwise from top left: Bitter greens salad; Spring Harvest pizza; Wood-roasted peppers and greens plus marinated olives; Forbidden Fruit pizza
News

Windy Brow Farms Wood-fired Kitchen Opens for the Season

There’s lots new on the menu at this not-a-restaurant on very-much-a-farm in Fredon, a place put on the Garden State’s culinary map by farmer Jake Hunt. It’s strictly seasonal, and weekends only, so make a plan and stick to it.

Chef Nick DeRosa and friend
People

A Chef and His ‘T’ings’

Chef Nick DeRosa rustles up little "t'ings" all the time at his Black Sheep Bar & Provisions in Garwood. As in, every day, something new. Often several "t'ings" new. That's because he finds inspiration literally everywhere. He's a chef who simply must create. Constantly.

Sunday Kitchen

Asian Pesto

Tap into spring’s verdant herbs to come up with a most adaptable condiment right for everything from noodles and stir-fries to grilled steaks and dumplings. In other words: Why wait for basil to make a sauce that’s endlessly useful?

Emma Wuillermin and baby daughter Davey
Baker to Baker

Emma Wuillermin, Emma’s Farmhouse Confections

In the latest installment of TPW’s periodic pro-to-pro column featuring Joselin Oudemans talking shop with fellow practitioners of the pastry and baking arts, Joselin visits with Emma Wuillermin, owner of Emma’s Farmhouse Confections in Hammonton, which exists at the intersection of farm life and baked goods infused with more than a little ooh-la-la.

Sepesi’s Sourdough Cinnamon Swirl
Food Find

Sepesi’s Cinnamon Swirl Sourdough

If you think warmer weather doesn’t merit the warm embrace of a spiced-right boule, meet Nicole Sepesi’s favorite baked good – and think again.

Pide, at Tosun
Fortnightly 5

Farms’ Freshest

Three members of spring’s brigade of top-flight produce and dainty eggs with extra-rich yolks lead the pack of favorite eats of the past two weeks. There’s also Turkish pide, which begs a side of something newly harvested and green.

Sunday Kitchen

Good Tidings from Spring Garlic

Mild, gentle and even somewhat sweet, this infant allium can be used in vibrant condiments such as chimichurri – or wherever you might find regular raw garlic too harsh to handle. Here’s a how-to.

Hunterdon Community market meal
Shop

Choosing Local

Farmers’ market high season has begun. Do you attend a true farmers-based market near you? If so, go. If Market Day isn’t yet a regular posting on your own calendar, check out one there’s good word about within a reasonable drive. Two worth an hour of your time are these biggies, now officially in session: Brick Farmers’ Market and Hunterdon Community Farmers’ Market.

Small, but a mighty part of a dish at Ram & Rooster, is the fermented kale, barely visible with its fellow ferment, mushroom, in these two platings.
Process

Catalyst for Change

The process of fermentation transforms a food. Derrick Bradley, the sous chef of Ram & Rooster, one of the Garden State's top restaurants, breaks down the process he uses to turn an ordinary green into something magical.

Food Find

Collaborative Ginger Ale

Cream Ridge Winery and Ramblin’ Sol Farm are neighbors in Upper Freehold Township. With a new project to produce a farmstead soda, they’re becoming partners in an enterprise that promises innovation and great taste.

Chef Train

Kunihiko Aikasa, Shumi Leonia

The work of "Chef Ike" is legend and second to none in the Garden State, a decades-long reign in sushi that's educated those looking to follow his all-pro lead or simply become better-informed diners. His selection to TPW's chefs-pick-chefs society of top toques by Craig Polignano of Juniper Hill Restaurant and Bar is heartfelt recognition of "the way he inspires" and how he "puts magic on the plate." Andy sits at Chef Ike's counter to listen to his story.

Lemon cream puff at Shuu Cafe
Fortnightly 5

All Is Bright

They come from a variety of sources, are devised from various traditions, but each food in this go-round’s quintet of favorites has a specific quality in common: exhilarating brightness. It’s a winner every time.

Sunday Kitchen

Creamed Ramps with Mushrooms

A kissing cousin of creamed spinach can be slimmed down a bit and still work as a mighty fine side dish for grilled steaks. Or it can take on a focal-point role in a non-meat entrée.

Smart Shop

In Season Now: Farmers’ Markets

Along with Garden State asparagus, strawberries, peas, spinach and lettuces come the new vintages of our farmers’ markets. They’re ever-more prevalent, diverse and geared to weekly stock-ups. It’s truly where the smart and savvy shop for food.

News

Are We Biting the Hands that Feed Us?

New Jersey’s organic farmers weigh in on the state of their occupation in a survey conducted by the Organic and Regenerative Farming Board, the results of which offer insights and pathways to progress as well as conundrums in need of resolutions.

Kizbee's Kitchen Coconut Cream Pie; Lemon Cheesecake in background
Baker to Baker

Jenna Kisby, Kizbee’s Kitchen

In the latest installment of TPW’s periodic pro-to-pro column featuring Joselin Oudemans talking shop with fellow practitioners of the pastry and baking arts, Joselin visits with Jenna Kisby, owner of two strictly gluten-free bakeries called Kizbee’s Kitchen, in Egg Harbor City and Ocean City.

Sunday Kitchen

Red Pomelo

In the waning days of citrus season, the giant of the genre can mix it up with early herbs from a backyard garden, a bitter chicory and any sort of shellfish you might choose to make a supper of salad.

Betsy and Travis Coatney: Bagels at Benchmark Breads
Process

Bagels from Bread Bakers

Do you expect more from your bagel than big, bland and too often boring? Then make a plan to visit – early! – Benchmark Breads in Little Silver, where four varieties of our quintessential breakfast food are the new to the lineup.

Place

Blessed are the Cheesemakers

There's many a mission at Cherry Grove Farm in Lawrence Township, yet none that surpasses the constant pursuit of making fine cheeses – and making them available to an ever-eager, ever-wider public.

Benchmark Everything Bagel
Fortnightly 5

Stepping Right Up

We know shrimp, bagels, spreads, sandwiches and stuffed savories; they’re some of the foods of our lives. But give those common foods a new look, a new touch or maybe even just deserved respect, and you’ve got something to fall in love with all over again.

Sunday Kitchen

Sunday Spread

Taking feisty to the max is a mix of chilies and herbs that plays like pesto, acts like chutney and enjoys its place at the table like salsa. It’s zhoug, and though it stands well on its own, it raises the bar on hummus in a major way.

Food Find

Pesto Ravioli

At an Italian deli in the borough of Middlesex, well-crafted sandwiches may reign. But in the royalty hierarchy at Sapore/Sapore Ravioli, there is one item that’s been integral to its name and reputation for more than 50 years and though it may not stand alone, it definitely stands out.

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