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RESTAURANT REVUE: Pop’s Corner

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The Garden State's independent news source for all things culinary

Emma Wuillermin and baby daughter Davey
Baker to Baker

Emma Wuillermin, Emma’s Farmhouse Confections

In the latest installment of TPW’s periodic pro-to-pro column featuring Joselin Oudemans talking shop with fellow practitioners of the pastry and baking arts, Joselin visits with Emma Wuillermin, owner of Emma’s Farmhouse Confections in Hammonton, which exists at the intersection of farm life and baked goods infused with more than a little ooh-la-la.

Sepesi’s Sourdough Cinnamon Swirl
Food Find

Sepesi’s Cinnamon Swirl Sourdough

If you think warmer weather doesn’t merit the warm embrace of a spiced-right boule, meet Nicole Sepesi’s favorite baked good – and think again.

Pide, at Tosun
Fortnightly 5

Farms’ Freshest

Three members of spring’s brigade of top-flight produce and dainty eggs with extra-rich yolks lead the pack of favorite eats of the past two weeks. There’s also Turkish pide, which begs a side of something newly harvested and green.

Sunday Kitchen

Good Tidings from Spring Garlic

Mild, gentle and even somewhat sweet, this infant allium can be used in vibrant condiments such as chimichurri – or wherever you might find regular raw garlic too harsh to handle. Here’s a how-to.

Hunterdon Community market meal
Shop

Choosing Local

Farmers’ market high season has begun. Do you attend a true farmers-based market near you? If so, go. If Market Day isn’t yet a regular posting on your own calendar, check out one there’s good word about within a reasonable drive. Two worth an hour of your time are these biggies, now officially in session: Brick Farmers’ Market and Hunterdon Community Farmers’ Market.

Small, but a mighty part of a dish at Ram & Rooster, is the fermented kale, barely visible with its fellow ferment, mushroom, in these two platings.
Process

Catalyst for Change

The process of fermentation transforms a food. Derrick Bradley, the sous chef of Ram & Rooster, one of the Garden State's top restaurants, breaks down the process he uses to turn an ordinary green into something magical.

Food Find

Collaborative Ginger Ale

Cream Ridge Winery and Ramblin’ Sol Farm are neighbors in Upper Freehold Township. With a new project to produce a farmstead soda, they’re becoming partners in an enterprise that promises innovation and great taste.

Chef Train

Kunihiko Aikasa, Shumi Leonia

The work of "Chef Ike" is legend and second to none in the Garden State, a decades-long reign in sushi that's educated those looking to follow his all-pro lead or simply become better-informed diners. His selection to TPW's chefs-pick-chefs society of top toques by Craig Polignano of Juniper Hill Restaurant and Bar is heartfelt recognition of "the way he inspires" and how he "puts magic on the plate." Andy sits at Chef Ike's counter to listen to his story.

Lemon cream puff at Shuu Cafe
Fortnightly 5

All Is Bright

They come from a variety of sources, are devised from various traditions, but each food in this go-round’s quintet of favorites has a specific quality in common: exhilarating brightness. It’s a winner every time.

Sunday Kitchen

Creamed Ramps with Mushrooms

A kissing cousin of creamed spinach can be slimmed down a bit and still work as a mighty fine side dish for grilled steaks. Or it can take on a focal-point role in a non-meat entrée.

Smart Shop

In Season Now: Farmers’ Markets

Along with Garden State asparagus, strawberries, peas, spinach and lettuces come the new vintages of our farmers’ markets. They’re ever-more prevalent, diverse and geared to weekly stock-ups. It’s truly where the smart and savvy shop for food.

News

Are We Biting the Hands that Feed Us?

New Jersey’s organic farmers weigh in on the state of their occupation in a survey conducted by the Organic and Regenerative Farming Board, the results of which offer insights and pathways to progress as well as conundrums in need of resolutions.

Kizbee's Kitchen Coconut Cream Pie; Lemon Cheesecake in background
Baker to Baker

Jenna Kisby, Kizbee’s Kitchen

In the latest installment of TPW’s periodic pro-to-pro column featuring Joselin Oudemans talking shop with fellow practitioners of the pastry and baking arts, Joselin visits with Jenna Kisby, owner of two strictly gluten-free bakeries called Kizbee’s Kitchen, in Egg Harbor City and Ocean City.

Sunday Kitchen

Red Pomelo

In the waning days of citrus season, the giant of the genre can mix it up with early herbs from a backyard garden, a bitter chicory and any sort of shellfish you might choose to make a supper of salad.

Betsy and Travis Coatney: Bagels at Benchmark Breads
Process

Bagels from Bread Bakers

Do you expect more from your bagel than big, bland and too often boring? Then make a plan to visit – early! – Benchmark Breads in Little Silver, where four varieties of our quintessential breakfast food are the new to the lineup.

Place

Blessed are the Cheesemakers

There's many a mission at Cherry Grove Farm in Lawrence Township, yet none that surpasses the constant pursuit of making fine cheeses – and making them available to an ever-eager, ever-wider public.

Benchmark Everything Bagel
Fortnightly 5

Stepping Right Up

We know shrimp, bagels, spreads, sandwiches and stuffed savories; they’re some of the foods of our lives. But give those common foods a new look, a new touch or maybe even just deserved respect, and you’ve got something to fall in love with all over again.

Sunday Kitchen

Sunday Spread

Taking feisty to the max is a mix of chilies and herbs that plays like pesto, acts like chutney and enjoys its place at the table like salsa. It’s zhoug, and though it stands well on its own, it raises the bar on hummus in a major way.

Life on the Farm

Growing a Collaborative CSA

Small farmers and food artisans can thrive by banding together to bring a collection of harvests and hand-made goods to local audiences. Lauren Vitagliano of the Pine Barrens Post offers a how-to and also explains why this model is effective and needed.

Food Find

Pesto Ravioli

At an Italian deli in the borough of Middlesex, well-crafted sandwiches may reign. But in the royalty hierarchy at Sapore/Sapore Ravioli, there is one item that’s been integral to its name and reputation for more than 50 years and though it may not stand alone, it definitely stands out.

Sunday Kitchen

Pickled Onions

Sorry/not sorry for shouting, but WHY AREN’T YOU MAKING PICKLED ONIONS? There’s no excuse for not adding to the versatility of this staple of any kitchen rooted in any culture. So grab a glass jar, snatch the ingredients from your pantry and get with a program of advancing the use of your onions.

Baked goods from Artisan Boulanger
Baking Arts

Jun Seo Park Artisan Boulanger

Equipped with recipes from one of Korea’s leading pastry chefs, a new independent bakeshop in Palisades Park reinvigorates the Asian-French connection with breads and confections that rely on technical precision and force of flavors that aren’t all about sweet.

Chef Train

Craig Polignano, Juniper Hill Restaurant & Bar

One of New Jersey’s most accomplished and influential chefs is a practitioner of what he preaches about using what’s locally grown and made as his primary sources of inspiration. The newest member of TPW’s chefs-pick-chefs society of top toques makes no bones about wanting to educate YOU in the flows of our Garden State’s seasons.

Cornflake Cookies from Windy Brow Farm bakeshop
Fortnightly 5

Twists Worth Shouting About

The favorites this go-round all come courtesy of doing something a little different with a basic of varying origins, including cornflakes, crabs, cabbage, a standard spread and a dumpling flattened yet not tasting flat at all.

Sunday Kitchen

One Little Big Thing

Cherry Grove Farm’s store in Lawrence Township proves a windfall for those looking to stock up on Garden State’s artisan foods. On this day, one particular jar becomes the instigator for myriad and many easy meals.

Process

Squirreling Schedule

Get with a new program that begins in spring and find ways to play forward the best produce in all our micro-seasons. It’s a good habit to develop for the cause of much better eating.

Baking Arts

Ridiculous Farm

A new bread bakery in the Belford section of Middletown speaks to the fact that we’re not merely in a sourdough moment, but likely leaning in to a sourdough century.

Sunday Kitchen

Oven-roasted Small Tomatoes

Ready to put something on your Squirreling Schedule? A favorite, and one of the easiest how-tos of the extend-the-life schemes for produce, is a method of oven-roasting and stashing in olive oil the omnipresent cherry tomato and its kin, the grape tomato.

Food Find

Lenora’s Tinga Chimichanga

A small café in the Bayshore borough of Keyport is where a shredded chicken version of the Tex-Mex classic does exactly right by the genre.

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