A Blast of Fresh Air
Warming foods take the lead in our favorites of the past two weeks – soups, stews, mixes of ingredients that put us in good stead as we segue into the heart of autumn. Consider these your barometer.
The Facts of ‘Pumpkin’ Spice
Chef Andre de Waal has much to teach us this week, including truths about autumn’s popular spice mix, a concept yet to be tapped, and why he believes in a far-less-known blend that he uses in a best-of-all-worlds recipe for cheesecake. Lean in; there’s much to savor and learn.
Supra Revolving Sushi Bar
Round and round it goes at this conveyor-belt “sushi train” in Union County that makes stops at the bar of an expansive restaurant. It’s where the foods emanate from, however, that needs the attention from a master of a craft that’s rarely been as disrespected as it is here. Flat-tasting fishes, brittle sushi rice and even nori with the texture of leather are the norm, signaling a convoy that’s way off track.
Los Barbaros Birria
The original stop in the year-round borough sandwiched between the Atlantic and the Shark River for the Mexican classic still reigns as the premier place for the marquee beefy stew and its complex consommé. Its secret: Family ties – and know-how.
A Big Breakfast
Is this kind of kick-starting morning meal right for a Sunday? It sure is. But it’s also right for any day of the week you want to feed yourself something nourishing and flavorful. It’s a vacation meal on a non-vacation day.
Shan Shan Noodles
The cuisine of Northwest China is given loving treatment at this stellar stomping grounds for knowledgeable diners and industry pros. Though the hand-pulled noodles and their menu mates are the main draw, the vivacious and informative mother-daughter team that shepherds both the storefront and its sister sweets shop in this modest strip mall in Parsippany adds to the ammo that lifts Shan Shan into TPW’s canon of Favorites.
Samba
By cooking not only to a Brazilian beat but to strict gluten-free standards, chef Ilson Goncalves keeps locals loyal to the charms of his side-street storefront that marries rustic with arty in atmosphere and classics with curiosities on the plates.
A Good & Easy Lunch
Forgo grab-and-go. Ditch no-nutrient snack fare. Cease skipping a proper midday meal by eating the last doughnut in the box a colleague brought into the office that morning. You’ve earned a high-octane noontime fueling. Here’s how you can have it.
Zaffron Bloom
It’s stew season, now and always at this Persian hub in Bergen County steered by a chef-owner who aims to educate on the particulars of one of the premier ancient cuisines of the Eastern Mediterranean. To be sure, there’s much more than stews of another stripe here. But grab this moment in time and feast.
Origin Story & Still-Memorable Eats
What inspired Fortnightly 5, TPW’s every-other-week quintet of favorite eats, to begin with? A favorite fellow food critic and a favorite uncommon word. And, ultimately, a whole lot of sensational foods.
Shrimp & Beans
Well, what we’re actually talking about is the combo of Filipino shrimp paste and Chinese long beans. It’s a dish that sounds complex, and it is. But it’s fundamentally a two-ingredient dish that delivers astounding taste with minimal effort.
Pao da Casa
The eyes and ayes may be synced into the baked goods at this downtown bakery-cum-café, but if you read the fine print on the non-sandwich menu you’ll find Portugal’s national dish: Bacalhau com natas. There’s lots that’s lovely here, but the cod-and-cream savory specialty satisfies the soul in ways sweet stuff can’t.