Calvin Trillin, a seminal writer with four-star ideas about food, long has campaigned to have pasta carbonara replace turkey as the centerpiece of Thanksgiving dinner. As usual, he’s spot-on correct. But there’s a new contender in the “86 the Bird” movement: the cavatelli BLT at this pub-by-the-Shore.
Nothing shy here: Fried squid shooting juices; birria bursting from a torta; wild boar ragu fit for sweater weather, but bright enough for summer’s end; dried shrimp powder that’s oomph in a jar; milk with true terroir. All in our every-other-week favorites report.
A caring community has built up around this innovative café in Hopewell, the next stop on the Chef Train.