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RESTAURANT REVUE: Shumi Leonia

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Restaurant Revue Little Silver

Pancho Mexican Kitchen

What’s going on at a much-hyped Mexican newcomer that draws crowds even as its kitchen stumbles? Problems, in need of solutions.

Restaurant Revue Newfield

Sweet Amalia Market & Kitchen

At this instant classic, an oyster from the Cape Shore Flats is honored and classic dishes get revelatory tweaks. The result is a terroir-defining experience destined for a spot on the national map.

Jack Potatoes

You don’t know jack about building a stuffed spud until you visit this newcomer in Westwood to check out the “Classic” and its kin.

Behold the Pork Tomahawk Chop

River Bend Farm in Far Hills is rightly revered for its meats. Taste this majestic chop and join the farm’s growing fan club.

Bon Nut Butters & Sweets

By putting healthy spins on mass-market products, Jennifer Nikitczuk is cooking up competition to Nutella and its kin. Only this artisan maker is a one-mom band decidedly devoted to her very local audience.

Restaurant Revue JEFFERSON TOWNSHIP

The Windlass

Hard on the shores of Lake Hopatcong is this spot where nature’s gifts, creature-made comforts and a range of worthy food converge. Grab a glider booth, a cocktail and ponder the edible options.

Restaurant Revue TOMS RIVER

Mathis House

There are temptations in teapots, food that’s pristine and a setting that inspires nod-to-your-neighbor propriety at this historic mansion where posh reigns.

Not to Be Taken Lightly: 9-13-21

There are a lot of bold tastes in this cycle’s favorites, including a BLT that’s destined for widespread greatness, a huuuuge cookie, a powerful pet nat, a game-changing clam roll and a bowl of unexpectedly potent ramen.

It’s Easy Using Greens

Fall heralds another season of favorite greens. Use them to make a spread and dip you’ll be proud to set out as you gather ’round the TV for football-watching.

Bamboo House

The shape’s familiar. So is the stately presentation on a pretty platter. But what’s inside the Black Rice Roll at this Japanese-Thai BYOB in Frenchtown diverges from the norm.

Restaurant Revue NEPTUNE CITY

The Grand Tavern

Calvin Trillin, a seminal writer with four-star ideas about food, long has campaigned to have pasta carbonara replace turkey as the centerpiece of Thanksgiving dinner. As usual, he’s spot-on correct. But there’s a new contender in the “86 the Bird” movement: the cavatelli BLT at this pub-by-the-Shore.

Restaurant Revue EGG HARBOR TOWNSHIP

Bahay Kubo

This is one fun way to eat, this communal-style Filipino feast known as kamayan. Easy, too. Except for figuring out how to stop.


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