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Restaurant Revue

Ed Schoenfeld

When the ground-breaking envoy for Chinese cuisine died last week at age 72, the Garden State lost a friend, a fan, a force of nature who foraged for everything edible, and an inspiring guide to creating cutting-edge restaurants.

Berg’s Smoked Meat & Poutine

Chef Kevin Berg, hyper-focused and determined to play Pied Piper into the world of Montreal smoked meat, scores a hat trick with sandwiches, a trio of gravy-, cheese- and brisket-topped fries, and sides that just might surprise.

Restaurant Revue UPPER MONTCLAIR

Marcel Bakery & Kitchen

It’s hard to stop ordering at this Middle Eastern/Mediterranean storefront that has taken in its older sibling (MishMish) and now holds double the pleasure for diners both eat-in and takeout.

Restaurant Revue MANASQUAN

Esposito’s

If sesame-seed crust pies are on your go-to map for pizza, put this spot (or its sibling in Matawan) on your dine card. Tip on a hit: the vodka sauce pie.

Restaurant Revue VOORHEES

Coriander

Vipul Bhasin, the chef at this modern Indian storefront in Camden County, surprises with winks to the novel that pop out of the boxes of the familiar.

Restaurant Revue STATEWIDE

DINE-Out vs. Eat-OUT

Oh, what a year: Late December back in 2020, we were marveling at how creative some restaurants could be, portioning off slips of outdoor spaces into dining rooms and fashioning foods that might warm at least in spirit, if not in temperature. As the seasons progressed and grew warmer, more dine-outs became literal eat-outs. Here’s to the hearty souls, both serving and seated, who adapted in style.

Restaurant Revue KENILWORTH

Ava’s Kitchen & Bar

In a sprawling space infused with industrial style and warmed by wood, copper and antiques, punched-up classics reveal a sense of adventure as well as knowledge of the novel.

Restaurant Revue STATEWIDE

Time for Takeout

Wintertime, and the living might not be so easy. But looking back over the last year of eating out, we’ve come upon many restaurants in our Garden State that have turned takeout into an art form. Today we recall a dozen that do it right and might help us get through another mean season.

Restaurant Revue SOUTH BRUNSWICK

Simply Jerk Jamaican Grill

Fans of the much-missed Green Grotto in New Brunswick take note: Eleith and Newell White are serving forth their famous shrimp curry, and more, at this take-out/dine-in strip-mall spot.

Restaurant Revue FRENCHTOWN

Frenchtown Inn

For decades a fine-dining destination in a prime Delaware River town, the family-owned inn is awash in options for foods either cleverly chill or agelessly sophisticated and settings that sport a water view or clubby conviviality.

Restaurant Revue EDGEWATER

Tsujita, Santouka, Omusubi Gombei

The food court inside Mitsuwa, the Japanese marketplace in a Hudson-hugging borough in Bergen County, offers a river view as well as a collection of quality eateries sporting savories or sweets. Consider three that’ll do right for lunch, dinner or snack time, fueling both shoppers and mealtime drop-ins.

Restaurant Revue CAPE MAY COURT HOUSE

tacoshop

Much more than tacos, this year-round newcomer from the James Beard Award-nominated chef Lucas Manteca is where a ceviche gets a re-charge, an empanada a revival – and an old-new sandwich cookie makes its debut.


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