FORTNIGHTLY 5: Some Things Old, Some Things New

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The Garden State's independent news source for all things culinary

3BR Distillery

Spirits at this Soviet-inspired tasting room in Keyport with a wide-angle view of the soaring space where they are made nudge those who imbibe in a decidedly different direction. It’s not the same-old, same-old any more, thanks to twin brothers with a bent towards completionism.

Upsetting the Apple Cart

’Tis the season you’re planning to bake that sky-high pie, put together a sugary crumble or frost an apple cake. But don’t short-change our beloved fruit by keeping it only on the dessert menu. It’s got savory possibilities well worth exploring.

Wakai Japanese Craft Ramen

A standout not only for ramen, this sleek storefront from which Waki Ng serves forth is able to accommodate the chef’s worldly view while showing proper respect for cherished classics.

Shagbark Hickory

Straight from Hoppy Valley Farm in northwestern Morris County comes an out-of-the-ordinary ingredient that can put a new spin on your baking and cooking. Ella experiments with a flavor destined for stardom.

Restaurant Revue WARREN TOWNSHIP

Brasa Wood-Fired Grill

Portuguese classics charred and burnished by flames that spring up from wood steal the good show at a new storefront in a Somerset County ’burg.

Connect Call

When City Green farmer Henry Anderson reached out to Razza chef Dan Richer about an abbondanza of a crop, the magic of farm-to-table cookery was ignited. Yes, it takes effort – to source, to obtain, to learn how best to use. But, as Richer is wont to say, “The proof is in the product.” And so it is when the farm’s primo plum tomatoes crush it atop the chef’s pizza.

Flat Green Beans

This good cooking bean looks humble, but goes haute quickly with a little help from companionable friends.

Edible Treasure Hunt

A focused hike in the Yard Creek Preserve presented by The Land Conservancy of New Jersey and led by Reid Giacomarra proves that nature offers wholesome riches.

Restaurant Revue LONGPORT

La Barca

Right in a special way, gnocchi take the lead at this bayside newcomer with a pedigreed past. But there’s more to learn how to love across the bills of food and drink fare.

Squid Ink Fettuccine

Many come for the meatballs. Or for the wood-fired pizza. And perhaps the nightly specials. But for some, Piattino in Mendham (and also Summit) is the place where squid ink pasta with shrimp and horseradish-spiked breadcrumbs is the standout.

Restaurant Revue CHERRY HILL


Rakesh Ramola’s often playful, mostly modern Indian dishes return to the Garden State in a dressed-up shopping center storefront. The chef is at his best when he successfully furthers the influence of every spice in the republic’s culinary vernacular.

Doubling the Standard: 9-12-22

You’d think ordinary foods – corn, chicken, ice cream, tofu, sausages – couldn’t shout out from various bills of fare as extraordinary, offering twice the flavor of presumably precious eats, right? Well, these did in the two weeks just past. Satisfyingly, and then some.


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